Why Is the Cuticle Removed During Gel Polish and Nail Extensions?

A common question is: why does the cuticle need to be removed during a gel polish or nail extension procedure? I often have clients come to me, frightened by past experiences with other technicians, who don’t want their cuticles touched at all. They’re afraid of getting hurt or believe that cutting the cuticle will make it grow back faster or thicker. At the end, I’ll explain why and when that can actually happen.

Let’s clarify what the cuticle really is. It’s often confused with the proximal nail fold, which is living tissue (in the photos I’ve marked what is what and explained the difference).

The cuticle is a thin, white layer of dead tissue that sticks to the nail plate. It’s removed with a pusher and/or a fine diamond bit using an electric file. Sometimes there’s excess cuticle that remains on the surrounding skin—if it sticks out or disrupts the overall appearance of the nails, it’s trimmed with scissors or cuticle nippers. It can also interfere with smooth application of product on the nail plate.

Because the cuticle is dead tissue, its removal shouldn’t hurt. If there’s pain, that means the technician has likely started cutting into the living tissue (the proximal nail fold), which is not correct and can lead to infection and discomfort. There should be no pain, no blood, and no redness when the manicure is done properly.

The main purpose of removing the white layer of cuticle from the nail surface is to ensure the product adheres correctly. Gel products do not bond to skin—they lift immediately. They’re designed to adhere only to a clean, dehydrated nail surface.

One widespread myth is that cutting the cuticle makes it grow back faster and thicker, creating a never-ending cycle—cut, grow, repeat, but worse. The truth is that our skin regenerates naturally. When more than necessary is removed, the skin tries to “compensate,” and indeed grows back faster and rougher—similar to what happens with calluses. This happens when live tissue is cut improperly, and the skin is trying to defend itself.

However, when only the dead cuticle is trimmed and the area is polished properly, it doesn’t grow back faster or rougher. It remains smooth and manageable.

And remember: a manicure should be a pleasure, not a pain.